Biting or Nipping in Puppies
Why is my puppy Biting?
Biting in young dogs is generally
a form of social play.
Biting in young dogs is generally
a form of social play.
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trainers?
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trainers?
Yes we do! Click on the
Training tab above to follow
links to their sites!
Why is my puppy nipping and biting family
members?
Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in
young dogs is generally a form of social play.
Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The
first thing you must do is provide ample opportunity for play, without biting. Social
play with people could involve controlled chase and retrieve games, as well as
long walks or jogging. Although wrestling and tug-of-war games can be fun, they
may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious.
Puppies need to learn to inhibit the force of their bite, commonly known as bite
inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their litter mates. It is one
reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks of age and they
have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be
extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods
with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood. (See our handout
‘Play and exercise in dogs’ for additional information).
members?
Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in
young dogs is generally a form of social play.
Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The
first thing you must do is provide ample opportunity for play, without biting. Social
play with people could involve controlled chase and retrieve games, as well as
long walks or jogging. Although wrestling and tug-of-war games can be fun, they
may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious.
Puppies need to learn to inhibit the force of their bite, commonly known as bite
inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their litter mates. It is one
reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks of age and they
have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be
extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods
with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood. (See our handout
‘Play and exercise in dogs’ for additional information).
How can I stop play biting?
Provided the dog is receiving adequate play, attention and exercise, you can turn the training to bite
inhibition. One of the things that they need to learn is how much pressure from their jaws causes pain.
Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will
bite at some time, this lesson is vital for human safety.
How is this lesson taught? When puppies play with each other, if one puppy bites another too hard, the
bitten puppy will yelp, and may also stop playing and leave. This sends the message to the puppy that its'
bites were too hard and if it wishes to continue to play, it needs to be gentle. However, people often do not
send this message to their puppy. In the beginning, they often allow the puppy to chew on them without
reprimands and the puppy assumes that the behavior is acceptable. Children appear to be most vulnerable
because their attempts at stopping the biting may not be properly timed or sufficiently abrupt to stop the
puppy from biting. In fact a child’s response is often seen by the puppy as an invitation to increase its level
of chase and play. Adult supervision or a head halter for training (discussed below) should help to insure
more immediate success.
The message people should send is that mouthing and chewing on hands is painful. To do this, often all that
is necessary is for all family members to emit a sharp ‘yip’ so that the puppy backs off and cease all play
and attention immediately. This sends the message to the puppy that the bites are painful and that biting will
cause play to be terminated. When consistently administered this will often stop playful biting. Another
option is to use a sharp ‘off’ command while briefly pushing forward with the hand to back the puppy away
(no hitting). The command ‘off’ followed by the immediate removal of play can act as a form of punishment
with the word ‘off’ soon teaching the dog that if it continues to bite, play will be withdrawn. This training often
works for those family members that are a little more forceful and assertive and who are immediate and
consistent in their training. If the puppy persists, chases or immediately repeats the behavior, closing a door
and walking out of the room can help to teach the puppy that nipping leads to immediate inattention.
What if yelping does not help?
Other techniques are often suggested for play biting. Some involve harsh discipline, like slapping the puppy
under the chin or forcefully holding the mouth closed. Remember, pain can cause aggression and cause the
puppy to become anxious, fearful or perhaps more excited. These techniques also require that you grab an
excited puppy; not an easy thing to do. Some puppies may even misinterpret the owner’s attempts at
punishment as rough play, which in turn might lead to an increase in the behavior. Physical methods are
therefore not recommended. Owners who cannot inhibit the puppy with a yelp, could consider a shake can,
electronic alarm, air horn, or ultrasonic device, as soon as the biting becomes excessive.
The use of a head halter with a remote leash attached allows the puppy to play and chew, but a quick pull on
the leash can immediately and successfully close the mouth and stop biting without any physical force. By
simultaneously saying "no biting", most puppies will quickly learn the meaning of the command. As soon as
the puppy stops and calms down, the owner can allow play to resume, as long as biting does not begin
again. This is one of the quickest and most effective approaches to stop the biting and get immediate
control of the muzzle and mouth, for owners that are not gaining sufficient verbal control.
Remember that play biting is a component of play behavior in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction.
Realize that your puppy is trying to play with you even though the behavior is rough. To ensure that you are in
control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each
session whenever you choose. One effective strategy when the play gets too rough is to immediately end
the play session and leave. Social withdrawal can be a very powerful tool. Leave the puppy alone long
enough to calm down. If upon your return the wild playing begins again, leave again. Although it is tempting
to pick the puppy up and take it out of the room, this interaction may be interpreted by your puppy as
additional play and the biting may continue as you carry the puppy to a confinement location.
This client information sheet is based on material written by Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and
Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB. © Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license.
October 31, 2007.
Provided the dog is receiving adequate play, attention and exercise, you can turn the training to bite
inhibition. One of the things that they need to learn is how much pressure from their jaws causes pain.
Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will
bite at some time, this lesson is vital for human safety.
How is this lesson taught? When puppies play with each other, if one puppy bites another too hard, the
bitten puppy will yelp, and may also stop playing and leave. This sends the message to the puppy that its'
bites were too hard and if it wishes to continue to play, it needs to be gentle. However, people often do not
send this message to their puppy. In the beginning, they often allow the puppy to chew on them without
reprimands and the puppy assumes that the behavior is acceptable. Children appear to be most vulnerable
because their attempts at stopping the biting may not be properly timed or sufficiently abrupt to stop the
puppy from biting. In fact a child’s response is often seen by the puppy as an invitation to increase its level
of chase and play. Adult supervision or a head halter for training (discussed below) should help to insure
more immediate success.
The message people should send is that mouthing and chewing on hands is painful. To do this, often all that
is necessary is for all family members to emit a sharp ‘yip’ so that the puppy backs off and cease all play
and attention immediately. This sends the message to the puppy that the bites are painful and that biting will
cause play to be terminated. When consistently administered this will often stop playful biting. Another
option is to use a sharp ‘off’ command while briefly pushing forward with the hand to back the puppy away
(no hitting). The command ‘off’ followed by the immediate removal of play can act as a form of punishment
with the word ‘off’ soon teaching the dog that if it continues to bite, play will be withdrawn. This training often
works for those family members that are a little more forceful and assertive and who are immediate and
consistent in their training. If the puppy persists, chases or immediately repeats the behavior, closing a door
and walking out of the room can help to teach the puppy that nipping leads to immediate inattention.
What if yelping does not help?
Other techniques are often suggested for play biting. Some involve harsh discipline, like slapping the puppy
under the chin or forcefully holding the mouth closed. Remember, pain can cause aggression and cause the
puppy to become anxious, fearful or perhaps more excited. These techniques also require that you grab an
excited puppy; not an easy thing to do. Some puppies may even misinterpret the owner’s attempts at
punishment as rough play, which in turn might lead to an increase in the behavior. Physical methods are
therefore not recommended. Owners who cannot inhibit the puppy with a yelp, could consider a shake can,
electronic alarm, air horn, or ultrasonic device, as soon as the biting becomes excessive.
The use of a head halter with a remote leash attached allows the puppy to play and chew, but a quick pull on
the leash can immediately and successfully close the mouth and stop biting without any physical force. By
simultaneously saying "no biting", most puppies will quickly learn the meaning of the command. As soon as
the puppy stops and calms down, the owner can allow play to resume, as long as biting does not begin
again. This is one of the quickest and most effective approaches to stop the biting and get immediate
control of the muzzle and mouth, for owners that are not gaining sufficient verbal control.
Remember that play biting is a component of play behavior in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction.
Realize that your puppy is trying to play with you even though the behavior is rough. To ensure that you are in
control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each
session whenever you choose. One effective strategy when the play gets too rough is to immediately end
the play session and leave. Social withdrawal can be a very powerful tool. Leave the puppy alone long
enough to calm down. If upon your return the wild playing begins again, leave again. Although it is tempting
to pick the puppy up and take it out of the room, this interaction may be interpreted by your puppy as
additional play and the biting may continue as you carry the puppy to a confinement location.
This client information sheet is based on material written by Debra Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and
Gary Landsberg, DVM, DACVB. © Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license.
October 31, 2007.
| 763-689-0095 |
| Cambridge VetCare Animal Clinic Cambridge, MN |
Clinic Hours:
Monday - Friday: 8am - 6pm
Saturday - 8am - 12pm
Sunday - Closed
Monday - Friday: 8am - 6pm
Saturday - 8am - 12pm
Sunday - Closed
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